Hawk HPS Brake pads

In the past I used Hawk Ceramic pads on the VR6.

That's the VR6 next to the JCW

This is the first time that I tried the Hawk HPS.  After driving my normal work route for 600km, the verdict is....

.....zero brake dust!

Those JCW calipers are heavy

Detroit (not so) Tuned

Last October 2012, I bought a Detroit Tuned Tensioner Stop.  It's a nice cheap, $25 piece of insurance that prevents your tensioner from exploding in case the belt ever breaks.  As other more expensive components can get damaged(AC, alternator for example).  Seeing as I am in the Insurance business, it made sense to get one. 

  The Detroit Tuned Tensioner Stop bolts onto your tensioner damper (the black shock like thing in the picture)

That wire is the Detroit Tuned Tensioner Stop

So fast forward to April 2013 and my DT Tensioner Stop looks like this:

Hey all the wires are frayed?

Well so much for that "cheap" insurance.

  Here is the solution, slightly more expensive $30, but better design.  Too bad this wasn't available last year...

Install was very easy.  Jack up the car.  Take off the passenger side wheel. Remove the plastic wheel liner.  Unbolt the damper and re-bolt with the Way Motor Works Tensioner Stop.

This goes to show you that not all insurance is created equal. Pay extra for the better stuff.

Got the Brake Pads from Speedtech

Friday July 12. Received an email from Sherman @ Speedtech, my Hawks HPS pads arrived.

On the way there I had some time to kill so I stop by Mastermind to look at Yoyos and found....

I need to paint the mirrors white

 

 

So cute

Before leaving Markham I go see my buddy Marty the Mechanic.  He gave me some tips on doing the brake pad install.   So back at the Ranch, time for the brake installation. 

In the end I didn't need to use that green lube.  I did get it for free from the Partsource guy!

First lay out all your tools.

 The R53 JCW brakes are a floating caliper design.  Just need to remove two bolts, slide out the caliper and rest it somewhere.  Don't let it hang as they are heavy and you do not want to damage your brake lines.

 

 

Sprayed with brake cleaner and used an old container to catch the mess

Using a flat head screw driver, pry out the old pads.  Use the C-clamp and the old brake pad to compress the piston on the caliper.

I used cardboard from the Hawk box and wrapped it around the old dirty pad.

Put in the Hawks!  On the drivers side there is a brake wear sensor, just pop that out with the screw driver.  Add the anti-squeel grease to the piston lip and back of the pads.  Use your flathead screw driver to spread it around like peanut butter.  Replace the caliper and locktite the bolts.  Quick n easy!

Here is a comparisson between new pads and old.

Wash n wax the car and you are Done for the day!

Front Brake pads need replacement. HAWK!!!

Next up, I need to work on the brakes...

Front brake pads were getting thin so I placed an order for Hawk HPS from Sherman at Speedtech in Markham.  Great pricing and he can get stuff within days.

All bad things come in 3's Part Deux

To recap the bad...

1. Belt tensioner fail
2. Misfire Cylinder #3 

 While I was awaiting the Amazon parts, I hit Partsource for some NGK plugs and cables. Luckily they had a sale on NGK that week :)

R53 JCW uses NGK BKR7EQUP, but after some extensive reading I decided to go copper plugs BKR7E.  Half the price of the stock plugs and copper is better conductivity.  My JCW has 100k KM on the odometer, so it was time to change. I bought the Mini used so not sure if/when the previous owner ever did maintenance.

Old plug:

 

Unfortunately the plug and wire change did not solve the misfire.  Also a rattling sound began to appear from the valve cover (uh oh..)  Which bring us to Bad thing #3.  Chain rattle.  So bad to forums for more research....

Symptoms lead to Chain Tensioner  failure.  After making some calls locally (Toronto) the least expensive place was Mini Vaughn West thanks to my SOMC club discount.

Chain tensioner install is easy enough, just have to remove a 19mm bold located next to the Oil canister.  Accessing that location is a little more difficult.

 You need to jack up the car and remove the passenger side wheel. Then remove the plastic wheel liner so you can see the bolt from the side.  However you need to access from the top side to reach the bolt with your spanner.  Torque 45 ft. pounds. New tensioner will automatically adjust once you start up the engine.

Top: Old Chain Tensioner

Bottom:New one comes compressed

this is the setup so you can get to the 19mm bolt

Picked up a coilpack from Partsource, ot fix the misfire.
 
Here are the Before and After videos.
Timing Chain rattle
New Chain Tensioner, Stabilus damper, Spark plugs, wires and coilpack installed

Bonus pictures:

Detroit Tuned tensioner stop didn't last a year :(

100k km old OEM coilpack

 

All bad things come in 3's Part One

June 27th. 7:30pm is Dragon Boat night, was about to hop onto the 401 from Thickson when all of a sudden my engine shudders, goes into "limp mode" and engine light goes on.

Ouch this is BAD! I turn on a side street, park and shut off the car.  I do a restart and listen to the engine.  Idle was very rough, time to head back home.  

I took small side streets as the car would not run past 50km per hour and acceleration was boggy.  In my garage, I pop the bonnet and check the belt tensioner.  It was bouncing like a pogo stick. 

 A scan of the engine code using EML 327 OBD2 scanner was next.

  

$5 Later I had the Torque app loaded on my Tablet.  Misfire Cyl#3.

A bouncing belt tensioner meant that the Stabilus damper on the tensioner was dead.
I also checked the crank pulley Harmonic Balancer (expensive part) but it was fine no wobbling or burnt rubber smell! :)

Off to Amazon to order a Belt Tensioner ($72 vs. $200?+ from the dealer) and a new Gates Belt K060532 since it was cheap $14.

You have to order the entire tensioner assembly $$

Old Stabilus damper. No BMW doesn't sell it as a part.